Perth to Broome

Drive a couple of hours north from Perth on Route 60 and you’ll be in the ancient land of the Yued people in Nambung National Park by the sea. After paying your entry fee, check out the visitor centre to learn about The Pinnacles: a surreal and spectacular collection of marine fossils formed in columns and knobs up to 3.5 metres tall. A short walk from the centre will get you to the Pinnacles Desert Lookout or you can drive in one direction if you prefer. If you can get to Nambung National Park between August and October the desert wildflowers will be blooming beautiful.

A quick (15-minute) drive from Nambung National Park gets you to Cervantes for lunch (or a snack). Cervantes is a tiny and relatively new town established in 1963 mainly for tourism and lobster fishing. It got its name from the Cervantes Islands off Thirsty Point Lookout, which were themselves named after an American whaling ship wrecked near the islands in 1844, although some believe the name came earlier from Baudin expedition party of the early 1800s, possibly in honour of the author of Don Quixote. Which story do you like better? Stroll along the jetties to inspect the boats before taking a table at one of the local seafood cafés, such as Seashells.

Hug the coast for a couple of hours in the city of Geraldton, once a tiny outpost, now a busy port and gateway to ocean adventures including sailing, surfing, fishing and scuba diving – the latter can be enjoyed at the young wreck of the South Tomi, or 60km out to sea where the Batavia was wrecked near the gorgeous Houtman Abrolhos Islands. In daylight hours visit the HMAS Sydney memorial, including its eerie yet beautiful Dome Of Souls, Point Moore Lighthouse, Museum of Geraldton (which closes at 3pm), Monsignor Hawes Heritage Centre and the Geraldton Regional Art Gallery. At night, book ahead to catch a show, concert or film festival at the Queens Park Theatre after dinner at a local favourite like Salt Dish for casual modern (dinner Friday and Saturday only), kid-friendly pub food including pizzas at The Provincial, or modern and traditional Indian at Origin India.

Sleep at Mantra which offers one, two and three bedroom apartments as well as an on-site restaurant. Ibis Styles offers family rooms and connecting room options, and Broadwater Mariner Resort has a pool you can relax by as well as a poolside barbeque (self-catered) for families and friends.

Alternatively, stay the night in Cervantes. The Cervantes Pinnacles Motel offers family-and-budget-friendly accommodation in the centre of town, including suites and two-bedroom units. The same team also manages the nearby luxury Pinnacles Edge Resort, which offers two-bedroom apartments, spa suites and studio hotel rooms. Both venues share the Europa Anchor Restaurant, which serves fresh local seafood and Asian-Italian fusion dishes using locally sourced produce.

Get breakfast and picnic items in Geraldton from Flowvitality, Salt Dish or Café Fleur then collect a map from the Library, Visitor Centre or Museum for the beautiful story-trails to 14 Indigenous sites. Most of them are around town, although you can also head east an hour or so to Mullewa Mass Rock, bushland walk and lookout.

A popular resort town for ocean adventurers and hikers, Kalbarri is a straight 1.75-hour drive from Geraldton along National Route 1 and George Grey Drive. Stop for a breather to admire the pink lake (Hutt Lagoon) near Port Gregory then continue up the stunning coastline to Kalbarri. If you’re visiting between June and November, you might see humpback whales. Afterwards, take Ajana-Kalbarri Road east to rejoin the highway north.

People have been coming to see bottlenose dolphins in Monkey Mia since the 1960s. The dolphins are now carefully watched over by rangers from the Department of Parks and Wildlife. If you want to see the dolphins set an alarm to be ready to meet the rangers on the boardwalk at 7:45am. Visitors must follow the rangers’ instructions, including not touching any dolphins, even if you’re lucky to be chosen to feed them. Dugongs and turtles often visit too, and it’s worth taking a tour with a Malanga Aboriginal guide to learn about the Indigenous peoples’ connection to this country. The Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort is at the eastern tip of the reserve and caters to all travellers with a range of hotel rooms, family studios, backpacker dorms and a caravan and camping ground. Have dinner within the resort at The Boughshed Restaurant or one of the BBQ areas.

You need the better part of a day at least to enjoy Shark Bay’s Ocean Park half an hour south of Monkey Mia. The aquarium tour takes you along secure walkways into the marine park where you’ll see sharks feeding, rescued sea turtles enjoying life again and loads of other marine life. You can also book dive adventures and marine safaris out to Steep Point and Dirk Hartog Island – especially popular when whales migrate through the area between August and October. The complex also has a restaurant by the beach, which is open for breakfast and lunch.

Carnarvon fans out at the mouth of the Gascoyne River where it meets the ocean at Babbage and Whitlock Islands. One Mile Jetty sticks 1.6km out off the end of Babbage Island. It’s popular with people who enjoy walking into the sunset – you can also catch the Coffee Pot train – but an access fee applies. The Fascine is an easier walk that curves alongside Olivia Terrace and includes a Walk of Remembrance for the sailors who died on HMAS Sydney; while the Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum is a short drive to the east side of town. Eat at the award-winning Westcoast Fish and Chips or Sails at the Best Western which offers comfortable dining.

Sleep at the Best Western, where Sails restaurant is also located. Alternatively, Carnarvon Motel is a great option for families. It has an outdoor pool, children's playground and games room alongside The Carnarvon Restaurant to keep the whole family entertained. 

The Ningaloo Reef runs from the water’s edge out to sea at the small town of Coral Bay, 2.5 hours north of Carnavon and 1.5 hours south of Exmouth, so even the smallest ocean explorer can get close to the coral if they wish. Ocean tour operators (glass-bottom boats or dive boats) will take you out to see whatever sea creatures are in season, including whale sharks between March and June, humpback whales between June and October, turtles gathering to breed on the beaches between November and February, and manta rays all year round. Sleep at the Ningaloo Reef Resort, which has a comprehensive range of accommodation from budget units to ocean view apartments and penthouses, plus a pool, BBQs and café.

Eat at the resort at Shades cafe or dine al fresco at Bills or Fins Café Coral Bay.

If you didn’t fill up at Coral Bay (two hours 40 minutes) or Exmouth (three hours), stop at Nanutarra Roadhouse on Route 1 for fuel and food because there really aren’t many other places on the road to Karratha. When you pull back onto the highway, keep a keen eye out for wildlife on the road. It’s another two hours 42 minutes to Karratha if the road is clear.

Stop 2: Stay at Karratha

Karratha is at the west end of the ruddy Pilbara region on the Burrup Peninsula, and contains the highest concentration of Aboriginal rock art in the world, some of it more than 20,000 years old. One of the easiest sites to get to is Deep Gorge along Burrup Road between Dampier and Burrup. Nearby is the serene Hearsons Cove shell beach, a popular place to swim during the day, and at night to see the Staircase to the Moon reflection on the mudflats at very low tides during a full moon between May and October. The Yaburara Heritage Trail connects the visitor centre to several significant Aboriginal cultural and geologically interesting sites in the area, while the Cossack Heritage Trail takes you through a ghost town. Eat at the Tambrey Tavern for family-friendly pub food then splurge at Sweet but Psycho for dessert. 

Sleep at The Ranges which offers luxury serviced apartments perfect for travelers who enjoy home comforts. They also serve up breakfast, lunch and dinner at 'My second home', allowing you to enjoy home-cooked meals at the cafe or in the comfort of your apartment. Otherwise, there are BBQ gazebos for guests to enjoy. Best Western is located in central Karratha also offers comfortable serviced apartments. Karratha International is a 4 star rated hotel perfect for those seeking a little luxury.

Port Hedland was named in the 1860s by Captain Peter Hedland, who had aspirations for it to become a major export port – although he chose the wrong entrance to the harbour, he was mostly right. These days the port processes more cargo tonnage than any other Australian port, most of it iron ore brought in from the mines by massively long trains. Before lunch, view Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art at Spinifex Hills Studio and Port Hedland Courthouse Gallery. Eat at the Esplanade Hotel. Before you leave town, buy food supplies for the night and day ahead as there isn’t much at Eighty Mile Beach.

Alternatively, rest and refuel at Pardoo.

If you don’t plan on stopping at Eighty Mile Beach, Pardoo Roadhouse has a general store, caravan park and tavern, and the petrol station is open 24/7. From here it’s almost five hours’ drive to Broome.

The Karajarri and Nyangumarta people are custodians of the northern part of Eighty Mile Beach, which is an important wetland for migratory birds from around the world. Some of the bird species that rest here will then head north to the Mekong Delta (3,714km) or south to the Antarctic (7,200km). Sleep at Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park, which has a handful of self-contained cabins and 150 powered caravan sites.

Head off after breakfast and you’ll easily make it to Broome for lunch. Eat at the The Zookeeper's Store and Wild Mango Cafe for fresh modern dishes and Town Beach Café for beachside café favourites. If you stop a few days in Broome you can take some mini-safaris, such as a camel ride along the 22km of white sand at Cable Beach, a trip just out of town to Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park and Animal Refuge, a pearl farm tour by boat or the water park at Broome Town Beach. Broome Museum tells the history of the town, including 140 years of pearling. There are numerous highly regarded jewellers working with the pearls that have made this town internationally famous – check their websites for opening hours or ask at your hotel.

Sleep at Bali Hai Resort is ideal for couples looking for something more special and luxurious. It does, however, offer villas accommodating up to five people which would be idyllic for a small family. Health and beauty treatments are on offer at the Bali Hai Spa, which is surrounded by tropical gardens and the perfect way to relax and rejuvenate. Located opposite the Broome Recreation and Aquatic Centre is Broome-Time Accommodation and Art Gallery, offering affordable self-contained units. Cocos Beach Bungalows offers eight 'Pearlers' style bungalows, all with a private veranda. For a relaxed afternoon, head to the swimming pool and spa.