Southern suns – a Tathra and Broulee road trip

Part of south coast NSW’s enduring appeal is its resistance to change and, while progress has crept southward over the past decade or so, on the road between Bermagui and Tathra it could still be 1980. We pass through densely forested national park, isolated pockets of farmland, and on several occasions the road narrows to a single-lane timber bridge spanning a pristine creek. We’ve only ever accessed Tathra via the Princes Highway before and this scenic route, while it lasts just 40km, forms a memorable part of our road trip.

Settling into Tathra’s holiday ambience

We arrive at NRMA Tathra Beachfront Holiday Park mid-afternoon. We’re in one of two ‘pet villas’, which feature an enclosed balcony so your pooch can watch the world go by off leash. Further along are ‘pet cottages’, each with a small, fenced yard. Tathra Beach, just over the hill on the park’s eastern side, also welcomes dogs and proves immensely beautiful as the sun dips toward the western skyline.

We take dinner at Tathra Hotel, which is perched high up on the town’s headland. Other attractions on site include play equipment below the spacious beer garden area and the Humpback Brewery, which provides an array of tap beers. I order a schmiddy of porter and then make the mistake of asking the barman if he has a New Zealand sav blanc for my wife. He responds – almost snaps – that the hotel only serves local products. Proudly, it’s safe to assume.

Next day my daughter and I are up early in search of coffee. Tathra has a few options: Gidget (the on-site coffee van), Tathra Kiosk, Salt Café Surf, and Wild Orchid. Back at the camp kitchen, known as ‘The Barn’, it’s pancake day. The lady serving says we can have as many as we like, so naturally my son asks for four. She suggests he start with three. As she removes the aluminium foil to reveal pancakes nearly as big as the dinner plate they occupy, it becomes apparent why. Maple syrup is deemed the ideal accompaniment to this ‘holiday health meal’.

The morning’s coolness dissipates rapidly and soon everything, from the indigo of the sea to the deep azure of the sky crowning the town’s distinctive escarpment, seems to be a shade of blue. In the bright, clean sunshine we explore the headland. Historic Tathra Wharf has undergone extensive restoration, along with the surrounding landscaping which was destroyed during the 2018 bushfires. Finished in 1862 and once a major seaport connecting Sydney to the south coast, the wharf now doubles as a museum open to visitors on weekends. Up the path from the wharf is a lookout that delivers 180-degree views of Tathra Head.

We jump back in the car and continue to Chamberlain Lookout at Tathra’s southernmost point. It overlooks the sea and Kianinny, a picturesque inlet with a boat ramp. Pelicans and clusters of cormorants flock here, attracted by the prospect of a morsel at the fish-cleaning tables. After a delicious lunch at Salt Café Surf we adjourn to the beach for a swim and then back to the holiday park for water slides. Tired and happy in the way only a day of salt, sand and surf can deliver, we slouch up the road for dinner at Tathra Beach Bowling Club.

Dairy goodness at Bega Cheese Heritage Centre

Next morning, we head out for another walk, inquisitive about the stairs that disappear into the bush near the beach kiosk. They climb steeply – there are a couple of seats along the way for those hard of fitness – and come out at the ‘top section’ of Tathra not far from the pub.

Our planned drive into Bega takes an early pitstop at the the Bega Cheese Heritage Centre. We loved the museum as well as the cheese samples and enjoyed checking out the old milking equipment and milk cartons. Don’t pass up a visit to the café, which has scrumptious milkshakes and a variety of cheese toasties. Dogs are permitted in the outdoor area.

The kids never miss a chance to grab a milkshake at the Bega Cheese Heritage Centre!

Full of dairy goodness, we continue along the Princes Highway to North of Eden, a gin distillery opened on the Stony Creek Farm property back in 2018. Gus and Jim, two border collies, greet us on arrival. Gus is both a tripod and a cyclops, but that doesn’t stop his enthusiasm or skill at playing ball. Also on the property are cute cows that are happy to be patted and hand-fed. With the sun shining on the undulating valley backdrop, it’s an intoxicating way to spend an afternoon and we’re reluctant to leave.

Some much-needed exercise it comes in the form of pedal karts at the holiday park. With our My NRMA rewards discount it’s just $8 per kart for an hour’s hire and the park’s long, flat roads resemble a racetrack. Karting is also a safe way for kids to learn some road sense and ours even had a crack at three point turns and reverse parking.

Kart champs in the making at Tathra Holiday Park!

Exploring bustling Merimbula and charming Pambula

The next day brings another flawless blue sky and we pack the car to drive south to the nearby towns of Merimbula and Pambula. When my wife and I first visited Merimbula in 2010 it was a bustling coastal town stealing tourist thunder from the better-known Eden. These days ‘bustling’ doesn’t cover it – during the warmer months Merimbula becomes a veritable beehive. We stop to take a stroll along its waterside boardwalk, privy to oyster leases (this region’s gastronomic claim to fame) and crabs that skitter around in the shallows, then press on towards Pambula.

Overshadowed by Merimbula and Eden, few knew about Pambula 20 years ago, but in more recent times Oaklands Barn has put it on the map. This place has something to attract just about everyone: a horticultural nursery, an art gallery, a café, a brewery and, its most recent addition, the Waratah Chocolate and Ice Cream Factory.

Waratah Chocolate: Handcrafted artisan chocolate in Pambula, NSW

We put in the afternoon at Nine Circles, a gin distillery in a strip mall that backs onto the picturesque Panboola Wetlands. Afterwards we seek out the Pambula River mouth, which has clear waters and fine blonde sand, although the afternoon winds have picked up and it’s too chilly for a swim.

Our top tip to get to know Tathra

Then it’s back to the holiday park for bingo in the camp kitchen. My daughter’s luck is in and she walks away with lollies, free pedal kart hire, a hot drink from Gidget, and a $5 voucher to spend at Bendy Kate’s, Tathra’s general store.

Here’s a travelling tip: the best way to get to know a town is to explore it on foot, preferably without the distractions rife during business hours. The dog and I hit the road just after six a.m. and I’m astonished how different the experience is. We see kangaroos grazing on the main street. We stop to read Tathra’s signposted history at the Taylor’s Square park. We spot a set of slipshod stairs near the bowling club and head up them, emerging at a little suburban enclave only locals probably ever see. We head south-east across the ridge and on Davidson Street find a cleft of rainforest, which spills down the hill like a leafy green waterfall, splitting two residential areas.

Just as I’m getting to know the real Tathra it’s time to move on. We head back north, making an early lunch stop at another favourite, Tilba Winery and Ale House. There’s something tremendously appealing about this little pocket of land in Corunna. Perhaps it’s the building’s rustic woodwork, the selection of wines and beers on offer, the simple but delicious lunch menu, the live music stages, its dog-friendly attitude or the chance to snap a selfie with a pair of friendly donkeys. Whatever it is, once you’re settled in you could stay all day. But we have a date to keep with Broulee Holiday Park, one of the NRMA’s latest acquisitions.

Broulee and its famous brewhouse

This compact park squeezes in a generous pool area, jumping pillow, games room, playground and a small off-leash dog area. Our pet-friendly dune villa has a wide enclosed verandah and a decent grassed area just beyond. We’re only about 50 metres from the park’s beach access, and once we’ve dumped our bags, we scoot across to watch surfers in search of a shapely wave. Dinner is at Smokey Dan’s (highly recommended), up the road in nearby Tomakin.

An old sign on the way into Broulee proclaims it as a ‘Village By The Sea’. It’s quite a bit more than a village these days. We set out along the esplanade that follows the coastline and it’s like Pitt Street with joggers, dog walkers, and surfers heading for a morning session among the crystal cylinders. We pass Killibinbin (a trendy little café hidden behind a nondescript servo and bottle shop), the Broulee Brewhouse and entrance after entrance to Broulee and North Broulee beaches, with handy coloured signs designating each section as dog-friendly or otherwise. Before we know it, we’re crossing the bridge over Candligan Creek and into Mossy Point. I decide to push on to Boat Shed, a café near the Mossy Point boat ramp.

The Boat Shed at Mossy Point.

Broulee is the southernmost beach town in the cluster of them immediately south of Batemans Bay and has quick access to the popular village of Mogo. In the afternoon we head over to the new Foxdog Distillery just down the road from Mogo’s famous zoo. The proprietors have spared no expense, building a sprawling sandstone edifice that manages to look rustic and chic all at once and boasts views of cows grazing on the neighbouring hillside.It’s open for lunch and dinner and its woodfired pizzas are fluffy and delicious.

On the final morning of our trip I hike up the steep road that leads to Broulee Lookout. I’m not expecting much – Australian lookouts often have a poor effort-to-reward ratio – but this one doesn’t disappoint, providing an uninterrupted view all the way down to Moruya Heads. No other region in Australia strikes such a balance between natural beauty, beach vibes and country lifestyle. Viva le far south coast.

Broulee Beach

Gone to the dogs 
The NRMA holiday parks we stayed in for this story – Batemans Bay, Broulee and Tathra – are just three of 34 Australia-wide that have pet-friendly accommodation options. Enquire with your chosen park about policies and availability. See www.nrmaparksandresorts.com.au.