Road trip: Darwin to Kakadu and back

Take the Arnhem Highway turnoff, 34km from Darwin, and follow it straight into the heart of Kakadu. On the way, stop at the Adelaide River Bridge to join a Jumping Crocodile Cruise – it’s the best way to get a close up look at these fearsome reptiles as they leap out of the water just metres from the boat.

Check out the view across the floodplains at the Window on the Wetlands visitor centre at Beatrice Hill, learn about the many habitats of Kakadu at Bowali Visitor Centre and gaze on ancient rock art galleries at Burrungkuy (Nourlangie Rock), before heading up to Ubirr on the top of the escarpment for sunset – but make sure you take a torch for the walk back down.

There’s lots to see and do around Cooinda in the southern section of the park. Take a scenic flight – the best way to see the famous Jim Jim and Twin Falls in the wet season – and learn about both traditional and contemporary Aboriginal life at Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre or join a 4WD adventure tour. Don’t miss Gunlom Falls. It’s a bit of a steep climb up a rocky track to get there, but soaking in the views from the spectacular wet edge plunge pool at the top of the falls is simply sublime.

It’s an easy drive south to Katherine from Cooinda, but aim to arrive with plenty of time to enjoy a relaxing dip in Katherine’s natural hot springs on the edge of town (they are free) before joining an afternoon cruise through Katherine Gorge. Now known by its traditional name, Nitmiluk, the chain of 13 gorges linked by a tumble of boulders and a string of rapids looks amazing in the late afternoon when the setting sun lights up the red sandstone walls. Wear comfortable walking shoes as there is some walking involved between gorges. You can also take a scenic helicopter flight over the gorge, or hire a canoe and paddle your own adventure.

Break your drive north at around the halfway point with a visit to Adelaide River War Cemetery. Australia’s largest war cemetery is the resting place for 63 civilians and 434 servicemen and women killed in the 1942 air raids on Darwin. Also remembered are 287 service personnel lost in Timor and other northern regions, but who have no known grave.

Make sure your swimmers and beach towel are within easy reach because the rest of today’s drive is all about getting wet in the wild. Popular with day trippers from Darwin, the waterfalls of Litchfield National Park are not only some of the most impressive in the Top End, they are also swimmer friendly, with beautiful crocodile free plunge pools and almost all are accessible to conventional 2WD vehicles. Waterhole hop your way across the park – spots to cool off include the shallow spa like pools of Buley Rockhole and Florence Falls where you can float in a deep pool fed by twin falls. Wangi Falls, the most popular swimming area in the park and the largest, even has wheelchair access into the pool and a kiosk.

Spend an hour or two floating in the clear swimming holes at Berry Springs Nature Park, also a great spot for wildflowers and birdwatching with lots of fascinating reminders of the time in WWII when 100,000 armed forces personnel were based here. Just next door is Territory Wildlife Park, worth a visit just to see the bird shows and the chance to get a look at all those creatures of the night that are usually heard rather than seen, inside the nocturnal house. Other highlights include the aquarium and walk in aviaries full of Top End birdlife. Kids love getting up close to the wallabies.